4 tips about holiday car deals

Lexus put the red bows atop its cars a month early, and General Motors is advertising Black Friday deals two weeks before Thanksgiving as the auto industry copies traditional retailers with holiday discounts well before the holidays.

Car buyers will reap good deals for a longer time, analysts say, as automakers battle to hold or increase their share of what likely will be record U.S. auto sales this year. Savings can run in the thousands of dollars.

“The consumer is in a great spot to get a great deal,” said Tom Libby, manager of industry analysis for the IHS Automotive consulting firm.

Lexus, Toyota’s luxury brand, started its sales early as it tries to catch Mercedes and BMW, which in recent years have dueled to be the top-selling U.S. luxury brand. Lexus’ “December to Remember” sale offers low-mileage three-year leases of $40,000-plus cars for as little as $319 per month with about a $3,000 down payment. BMW and Mercedes have similar offers.

Geoff Pohanka, whose Washington, D.C.-area dealership chain includes a Lexus store in Virginia, said the early promotion might not boost November sales, but it should help toward year’s end. “It might take a while to create some momentum for sales,” he said. “In December it will really get going.”

GM’s Chevrolet brand started advertising Black Friday sales in Detroit last week with the slogan: “Avoid the chaos, not the deals.” The brand is offering zero percent financing for six years or 20 percent off the sticker price of many 2015 models.

Holiday sales make December among the top months for auto sales because of the deals. Here are some things to consider if you’re in the market:

How much can I save?

Depends on what you’re buying. You should be able to get around 10 percent off the sticker price of a lingering 2015 model, maybe more on higher-priced large trucks and SUVs, said independent auto analyst Jesse Toprak. For example, Ford is offering more than $9,600 off the sticker price of some 2015 F-150 pickups, the nation’s most popular vehicle. Lease deals are the best they’ve been in years because interest rates are low and resale values are high for cars coming off leases. Dealers are hungry to clear their lots of 2015 models because they don’t want them sitting with big discounts next to 2016 models, Toprak said. “The old notion of ‘year-end clearance sale’ has some validity,” he said. But Toprak cautions against buying an undesirable car with a funky paint color just because it’s discounted.

What models are discounted?

In general, automakers offer discounts on models with the highest inventory, Libby said. That means discounts on slow-selling small and midsize cars and electric and hybrid vehicles, but few deals on hot-selling small and midsize SUVs. Automakers have people who watch inventory nationwide and offer incentives when supplies grow. Sometimes promotional cash is offered to dealers rather than consumers, so it’s wise to comparison shop to get the best deal, Libby said.

What models have high inventories?

Automakers measure inventory by dividing the sales rate per day into the number of vehicles on dealer lots to figure out how many days worth of cars are out there. Automakers say a 60-day supply is optimal. Last month, Toyota’s rugged FJ Cruiser SUV had the highest days’ supply with a staggering 644. The Mitsubishi I-Miev electric car was second at 286, followed by the Fiat 500L at 280 and the Fiat 500 at 239. Nissan’s GT-R performance car rounded out the top five at 224 days, according to Ward’s Automotive. An example of a resulting discount: Fiat’s offer of $2,500 cash on the 500L, or 13 percent off the sticker price.

What models have low inventories?

Hot-selling Subaru has the most models with the lowest supplies, so don’t expect much discounting. The WRX, Impreza, XV Crosstrek, Legacy, Outback, Forester and BRZ all had 18 days worth of inventory. The Nissan XTerra SUV also had 18.

How to Extend the Life of Your Car

With rising gas prices and costly car repairs, the last thing you want to worry about is having your car break down. Instead, protect your investment, and get from Point A to Point B as reliably as possible. Keeping your car running longer might be as easy as checking the fluid levels and making sure the tires and well inflated.


Extend the Life of Your Car Step 1
Read the car’s manual and schedule maintenance accordingly. Keeping up with your car’s recommended maintenance schedule can help avoid costly problems with your cooling system, drive train, suspension and other components; following the recommended schedule also helps ensure you the get the full benefit of the manufacturer’s warranty.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 2
Drive less. Especially, avoid short trips. Cold starts are hard on engines, your gas mileage, and the environment. Short trips can also significantly shorten the life of your muffler. Basically, you get condensation in the exhaust when you start a cold engine, and if you don’t run the car for long enough to evaporate all of the condensation out of the system, excessive amounts of water can accumulate in your muffler, and rust a hole through it. Avoid starting a cold car just to pull it into the garage, for instance. Consider walking to the nearest store for a change. Combine short errands, and, if you have multiple vehicles, drive the one more recently driven when you go out again. Do drive a car at least every week or so, since cars that sit for longer than a week or two at a time have other problems, such as fluids gradually draining out of systems. Consult a mechanic if you will store a car for an extended period.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 3
Check the fluids: You should check the level of your antifreeze, oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and brake fluid, very regularly: like every time you buy gas. Even if your car doesn’t leak fluids, it can develop a leak and quickly have a dangerously low level of something. You should also check the color of some of these fluids. Some of these have see-through plastic tanks that you can look through, and some have dipsticks. Antifreeze should be either pink, green, or yellow (Pink for newer cars with “Dex-Cool”, green for old cars with plain Ethyl-Glycol, and green or yellow for cars that have been flushed and filled with universal antifreeze…brown antifreeze should always be flushed, it either has rust or a lot of dirt in it, probably both. Also, never mix different kinds of antifreeze; if you don’t know what color antifreeze your car has, buy a universal brand. Oil should be relatively clear, not black – black oil has been left in the engine for too long. Oil that looks white and milkshake-like has water in it, probably from an internal antifreeze leak, or very rarely, just a large amount of condensation. Transmission fluid should be bright red, and should not smell burnt…it probably needs to be changed if it’s brown or smells burnt.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 4
Change the oil regularly: This will improve your gas mileage and protect your engine. The recommended mileage between oil changes is 3,000 – 5,000 miles (or 5000 – 8000 kilometres) or every 3 to 6 months. Doing this could make it possible for your vehicle to attain 200,000 miles (or about 320,000 kilometres). Change the oil filter as well – there is no sense in putting clean oil through a dirty filter, and filters are very cheap and available at any parts store. Please check your service manual, or contact your dealer for your car’s specific needs.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 5

Change the air filter: This is something you can do easily at home without using tools, and should be done approximately every 12 thousand miles. You can buy a matching filter at nearly any auto parts store and your owner’s manual will show you where your air filter is located. A dirty, dusty filter can lower gas mileage.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 6
Flush these fluids every two years: power steering fluid, brake fluid, and cooling system anti-freeze. Check this timetable against your owner’s manual. Newer cars generally allow longer intervals between changes. Change transmission fluid & filter at least every 50,000 miles (40k to 45k is even better). If you have gone over 50,000 miles without a change, on many transmissions, it is best to NOT change it and hope for the best. Often putting new transmission fluid in a trans that has too many miles on the fluid will actually cause problems because it can break down ‘varnish’ and other gums/solids that have built up in the trans due to over-used fluid.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 7
Monitor your brake pad thickness and don’t let the pads wear down to metal – this will cause damage to your brake rotors (“discs”) at least and possibly your calipers as well. Rotors and calipers are much more expensive to replace than pads. There is no such thing as “cleaning” a brake pad while it is still on a car – the friction between the pad and rotor will eradicate any outside substance almost immediately.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 8
Rotate the tires. Changing tire position is very important and reduces uneven wear and tear on the tread, thus extending the life of the tires. The recommended rotation cycle is twice a year or every 6,000 miles. Rotate them diagonally – front right to rear left and front left to rear right. However, this pattern can change depending on the drivetrain of the vehicle, and the type of tire. Your vehicle manual will contain detailed rotation information. Keep in mind some tires (especially on sports cars) are directional and are meant to spin only one way. They will have a large arrow on the sidewall to indicate this.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 9
Keep the tires inflated. Under-inflated tires can reduce the tire life by 15% and will slightly decrease your gas mileage, perhaps by 10%. Inflating tires is perhaps the easiest of all activities, and many stores sell tire gauges for a very small cost. Checking your tire pressure every other time you get gas will reduce tire wear and prevent these issues. Monitor your tire tread with a penny. Insert the penny into the tread with Lincoln’s head down. If the top of his head is not obscured by the tread, your tires need to be replaced. Basically, if you can see all of Lincoln’s head, you must replace your tires.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 10
Keep the front end aligned. If you notice your car shaking while driving at high speeds (not while braking – shuddering while braking indicates warped rotors), or if your tread is wearing unevenly, then you may need an alignment. This is also key to extending the life of your tires and will keep the tread even for increased safety.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 11
Get your car off to a good start every time you drive it. Start the car and drive off slowly and gently until the car reaches operating temperature. This reduces the strain on the engine while the oil is still cold and thicker. Another option is to use electric engine space heaters, and start the drive with a warm engine. Accelerate promptly to the target speed. For most modern cars, idling a cold engine is both counterproductive and wasteful. Additionally, as you accelerate, release the gas a bit to cause the automatic transmission to upshift while you are not pressing hard on the gas. This causes less wear on the internal clutches. It is easier on the clutches for the car to shift when you ease up on the gas.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 12
Use your parking brake. Even if you are driving a car with an automatic transmission, use your parking brake regularly, especially if you’re parked on an incline. It helps keep the brakes adjusted in the rear of the car and makes them last longer. Do not use your parking brake in the wintertime because your brake will freeze and it will be stuck until it thaws out.
Extend the Life of Your Car Step 13
Wash your car: Road salt, sludge and pollution can lead to costly body work. Without regular cleaning, you can start to notice rust on the bottom of your doors within four years. Another three to four years and the corrosion will creep to underbody components, like brake lines. It can cost thousands in rust-related repairs if you neglect to wash your car, especially near ocean/gulf shorelines where the road sand or morning dew might be salty.

Tips on Race Sports Cars

Start the engine either by turning it over or by electronic ignition. The motor should already be started by the time the announcer comes over the PA. Give it some gas to get her warm. Just keep an eye on the temp and be sure all gauges are working properly.

Racing sports cars means running 500 to 1000 horsepower, you can just imagine the g- forces that are in all that power. Many secrets for additional horsepower are turbo or bigger turbo. If you slide out when racing that means to much power for the track and need to tune before racing.

Racing with an automatic transmission over a standard in racing is not recommended. Usually this is for the rookies if they can’t shift on their own. Usually people who have been racing like to race with a Manuel because of the feel they get when downshifting then boosting back up to 8grand. Track cars or bracket cars can be used as automatics but when it comes to drag racing and drifting its all about the standard.

When you are racing sometimes it is hard or unavoidable to skid the wall. This is not a cause for alarm but should be taken seriously. If you are an experienced driver or racer then you are probably already fine with the wall but in drifting its different you’re sliding towards the wall at about 60 mph trying to drift parallel to it. It can get very insane at times when you see someone’s rear come within an inch of the wall and they drift it perfectly.

Always stay beneath the white lane at 100mph or over this is just so other racers can avoid crashes and crashing into one another. After you have made speed with others and are at speed you can begin drafting again.

Keep your eyes on the road or track at all times. Be steady and don’t let your hands ever slip off the wheel while making a fast turn or while drifting this can result in a crash injury or fatality.

Part of being careful and focused also knows that there is an emergency button on every sports car when it is being raced. It is usually in the middle of the dash where the driver can easily reach it and punch it. This button will automatically tell the cars ECU to shut down the cars motor.

Keep in mind that in a bad situation the sports car can still be driven but it isn’t a good idea since most sports cars being raced today are running with injected fluids such as methanol or alcohol.

Minor car repairs should be in the budget

Dear Dave,

My wife and I are on Baby Step 3 of your plan. When we have standard car repairs, I want to use the emergency fund. She says that kind of thing isn’t an emergency, and we should just put it off as long as possible while saving up to fix the problem. Who’s right?


Dear Ryan,

Sorry, you’re both wrong. Cars break. And since no one will invent one that lasts forever and doesn’t break down, standard car repairs shouldn’t be viewed as an emergency. Maintenance and repair of your vehicles are an ongoing expense. It’s just part of owning them. That means you should have a category in your monthly budget for this sort of thing.

Now, an engine blowing up or the transmission going out would be an emergency. Hopefully, you’re not talking about something of this magnitude. But you’ve got to rework your budget to where you have something designated each month for car maintenance and repair. That way, you won’t be dipping into your emergency fund just to cover the basic wear and tear that comes with owning a car.

Take the next step today, and adequately fund this area so it doesn’t continually come back to bite you in the wallet and sabotage your emergency fund!


Start saving after Step 3

Dear Dave,

I’ve been trying to get control of my money, and the other day I was looking at your plan. Where does buying a house fit into the Baby Steps?


Dear Stacy,

Let’s call it Baby Step 3b. Baby Step 1 is saving up $1,000 for a beginner emergency fund. Step 2 is paying off all consumer debt from smallest to largest using the debt snowball. Then, Baby Step 3 is where you top off your emergency fund with three to six months of living expenses.

Once you’ve done that, it’s time to save up for a down payment of at least 20 percent on a house. If you take out a mortgage, make sure it’s a 15-year, fixed rate loan, where the monthly payments are no more than 25 percent of your monthly take-home pay.

Doing it this way may delay your dream of being a homeowner a little bit. But buying a house when you’re broke is the fastest way I know to become a foreclosure statistic!


Dave Ramsey is America’s trusted voice on money and business, and CEO of Ramsey Solutions. He has authored five New York Times best-selling books. The Dave Ramsey Show is heard by more than 8.5 million listeners each week on more than 550 radio stations. Dave’s latest project, EveryDollar, provides a free online budget tool. Follow Dave on Twitter at @DaveRamsey and on the web at daveramsey.com.

How to Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car

Do-it-to-yourself auto air conditioning recharging requires eye protection, a charging kit, refrigerant, and some practical knowledge. Keep in mind, if you do not have the manufacturer’s specifications and a charging manifold with gauges, you will not be able to do a professional job, but many people successfully recharge their AC with kits available at department stores and auto parts retailers. Try to get a kit that includes a pressure gauge, this will make troubleshooting and charging easier. Here is a guide to how it is done.


Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 1
Determine if you have any refrigerant left in your system at all. To do this, you will need to fit a charging hose on the low pressure port, discussed later. Be sure to use eye protection. If your system is completely discharged, it may be contaminated with moisture, and charging will not give satisfactory results unless the source of the leak is found, repaired and the receiver dryer replaced. The open system must be repaired and purged using a vacuum pump to remove air and moisture. You will also want to add compressor oil if the system has been leaking. Evidence of oil leakage and measurement of oil left in a replaced compressor will be a guide as to how much oil to replace.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 2
Check for any obvious leaks. If your system has lost sufficient refrigerant to quit working, you have a leak. Small leaks may take months to deplete the refrigerant so that the AC fails to cool, but charging a system with a significant leak is simply a waste of time. Look for refrigerant oil residue on hose, tubing, and fittings that are part of the refrigerant system. Spray a soapy water solution on fittings and watch for bubbles to appear, indicating a leak.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 3
Make sure the condensing coils are not obstructed with debris, and that the compressor is operating. To test a compressor with a low charge you may need to jump the pressure switch, often located on the accumulator.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 4
Tap your refrigerant can. This is done by opening the valve on the tapping fitting completely open, which retracts the tapping pin into the valve body. Failing to do so will result in the tap puncturing the can when it is installed, releasing the refrigerant before the fitting is sealed.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 5

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Securely thread the tapping valve on the refrigerant can, close the valve completely shut. This drives the pin into the top of the can, making it possible to release the refrigerant when the valve is opened.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 6
Purge the charging hose by opening the valve until you hear it fill with refrigerant, then slowly loosening the brass fitting that connects the hose to the valve. Be careful not to allow refrigerant to spray on bare skin, as this will freeze skin tissue on contact. Re-tighten the hose once you have heard refrigerant escaping, this should have forced any air (and moisture) from the hose.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 7
Locate the low pressure charging port on the refrigerant line on your car. This will be on the larger tube, usually near or on the accumulator. Connect the quick coupling and make sure it is not leaking.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 8
Crank your engine and turn the AC on high cool, high fan. If your recharging hose is equipped with a pressure gauge, check it to determine if the system needs refrigerant. If the pressure holds steady in the recommended range, the system is full and should not be charged. If the pressure is below the recommended range, follow the instructions to recharge the system. Another indicator that the system needs refrigerant is that the compressor cycles rapidly. If the compressor switches on and off every 5 to 20 seconds, it is most likely due to low pressure. You will see the pressure drop when the compressor kicks on, the compressor will shut off when the pressure gets too low, and the pressure rises back up to the operating range as the system equalizes. Compressor cycling (switching on and off) in a completely charged system should be very slow (every 30 seconds or up) or not at all present (compressor stays on) in hot weather.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 9
Open the valve until you hear refrigerant passing through the hose.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 10
Allow the can to dispense its contents. This often takes anywhere from two to five minutes. The hotter the outside temperature, the more quickly the contents will discharge. Keep the can with the tap up at all times, to allow non-liquid refrigerant into the suction side of the system to prevent compressor damage. Do Not overcharge! A manifold gauge should be used to measure both high and low side pressure. Consult a Pressure temperature chart.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 11
Close the valve and disconnect the hose when the can is empty or no longer discharging enough to keep the can cold. Check the charging port for leaks, and replace the plastic cap.
Recharge the Air Conditioner in a Car Step 12

Edit step

Check the air from the AC vents in the car. It should be blowing cold (38-45 degrees), if not, either one can of refrigerant was not sufficient to charge the system, or some other component is the problem. Do Not overcharge! A manifold gauge should be used to measure both high and low side pressure. Consult a Pressure temperature chart.

Tips for Those Buying Used Cars

Some people can not afford to keep on running a car for the reason that they have paid through the nose for a high-priced vehicle, well now is the perfect time to snap these types of car up. At times people sell off their cars so as to get bigger cars for their family, but no matter what the reason is behind selling a used car, you need to be conscious that there are numerous used cars on the market with more being added every day.

Buying a used car is not as hard as it used to be back in the days when it meant deceitful dealings in a person’s yard. But you need to be sure as to which car you really want or else you just might end up driving away with a nightmare! But on the other hand, the good news is that there are now laws and regulations in place to guard the buyer from these kinds of activities.

First of all, you need to know which make or model you wish to buy. Even though this might sound as mere common sense, but with the number of used cars available and the makes could make choosing a car very difficult. After this, look around as there are a number of places where you can attain used cars from.

After finding the car you wish to buy, take time to evaluate if the car is right for you. Do not feel pressurized into making a purchase if you are not completely satisfied with it. Keep in mind that this is the car which you would be driving every day and you have to be comfortable. Talk to the owner as well as inspect the car and make sure the details match. Consider taking it for a test drive, as you have a right to do so.

After being completely satisfied with the car as well as the details presented in the documentation, close the deal. At times, sellers might try to bargain about the price, but remember that you should pay for what you get. Do not buy the car if you are not sure that it is the ideal car. Move on and look around!! Take your time to decide on the perfect car for yourself!! 


Reliability and car maintenance boost Asian car sales in Ghana

What makes Ghanaian shoppers opt for Asian cars? Since the beginning of the decade, Japan’s Toyota has been a steady player in the Ghanaian automotive industry, securing more than 30% of the market share.

South Korean carmakers Hyundai and Kia have recently gained ground; Hyundai is expected to overtake Toyota in sales at the end of 2015. While new and pre-owned East Asian car sales thrive, European car makers have failed to gain any significant fan base, as of yet. One of the many reasons for the phenomenon is reliability, particularly when it comes to car maintenance.

The Consumer Reports’ 2015 Annual Auto Survey has found that Korean brands are gaining popularity in terms of reliability; for the first time ever, Kia has beat Japanese-made Honda in votes.

Nonetheless, on Carmudi.gh, car shoppers visit Toyota brands the most, with models Camry (700,000 searches), and Corolla (370,000 searches) being most popular.

Carmudi was founded in 2013 and is currently available in Bangladesh, Cameroon, Congo, Ghana and other African countries offering  buyers, sellers and car dealers the ideal platform to find cars, motorcycles and commercial vehicles online.

To verify maintenance costs across brands, Carmudi surveyed top car repair shops to find the most common car problems and their average costs.

Garages are increasingly working overtime to provide maintenance and repair services; in Accra, top mechanics report that they are receiving up to ten new cars per day.

Engine repair is the most common issue confronting mechanics in Ghana. Services for cars with an engine size 1300 to 2000cc are cheaper than those with a capacity larger than 2000cc.

Toyota models are among the cheapest because spare parts are readily available and there is an abundance of specialized mechanics. Engines of German-made cars such as BMW and Mercedes are not as affordable to maintain.

Suspension problems are also common, while costs differ depending on the origin, model and age of the car. Newer models have expensive parts and need modern equipment to diagnose and fix problems.

The price of maintaining oil capacity of a car and various replacements explain why majority of cars in Ghana are not only Japanese Toyota and Honda, but increasingly Korean vehicles with Hyundai.

East Asian cars are cheaper to service and repair because the majority  fall within the 1300cc and 2000cc engine size bracket.

How to Remove Rust from a Car

A troublesome rust spot on a car typically spreads with time as the metal underneath is exposed to moisture and air, which cause it to oxidize, or corrode. Whether you plan on keeping it or selling it, your car will look cleaner (and be worth more) without the rust, so don’t hesitate to take immediate action. Remove the rust spots and give the car fresh coat of paint as early as possible to stop widespread rust damage before the spot has a chance to spread.

Method 1 of 2: Buffing and Re-painting Rust Spots

Remove Rust from a Car Step 1
Take basic safety precautions. This method involves using a sander and a grinder — two powerful electric tools that can kick fine rust and paint dust into the air. To avoid injury and protect yourself from these airborne particles, be sure to wear gloves, safety glasses and especially a dust mask to keep the rust and paint particles out of your lungs.For heavy-duty jobs, consider using a respirator rather than a simple dust mask.

Remove Rust from a Car Step 2
Mask any spots that you don’t want to get dusty. As noted above, this job puts rust and paint particles in the air. If you’re not careful, these can settle on your car, giving it a “dirty” appearance that can be hard to get off. To avoid this, “mask” the parts of your car that you’re not working on (that is, cover them with tape and masking paper.) Use a tarp sealed with painter’s tape under the car to define your work area and protect the floor.Masking the car off is a delicate art. Do not use newspaper, as paint spray can leak through it and leave unsightly specks. Instead, use real masking paper, which is less porous and won’t let paint through. Also, be sure to tape every single edge of your masking paper down. Don’t just use a few small pieces of tape to get it to stay in place — paint can (and will) work its way under any loose edges.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 3
Try to mask along the existing panel lines. In general, you don’t want your masking to stop in the middle of a panel, or you will be left with sharp lines where your new paint ends and the old paint begins. These lines do not go away with any amount of buffing or addition of clear coat layers, so practice prevention by masking the car correctly in the first place, stopping at the panel lines around your rust spots and going no farther inward.If you’re experienced with auto painting, you might alternatively try stopping your masking a few panels back from your rust spot. If you know how to gradually blend paint, which is done when spraying, you can use this tactic to make it so that there isn’t a drastic color difference between one panel in the next.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 4
Remove the paint around the rust with a dual action (DA) sander. A DA sander gives you control over the speed of the sander while removing the paint. Start with 80 grit and work your way up to 150 grit. Use the DA sander with (80-150 grit) to take off both the primer and paint, as well as any light rust that hasn’t fused with the metal, and level the surface between the painted surface and the unpainted area.After you’re done, feel with your (gloved) fingers — you should now have a smooth surface.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 5

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Switch to a metal grinding wheel. Next, use a metal grinder to remove any thick rust buildups and expose any pits. When using the wheel, go slowly, because these tools can do a lot of damage to the car’s body if used incorrectly. Once the grinding is done, apply rust removing acid to the area to remove the microscopic particles of rust that remain.For this job, phosphoric acid is usually best and can be bought at most auto parts stores.If you want, use a hole spot filler or a body filler like Bondo to even out some of the dents and fill the space where the paint is gone. Finish application of your filler by sanding by hand (using 120 grit sandpaper) to get a nice smooth metal surface. See below for more extensive information on using fillers.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 6
Prepare the spot for priming. Purchase primer that is ideal for painting on bare metal and an auto spray that matches the color of your car. Both of these supplies can be found at an auto supply store. Primers may vary, so follow the instructions provided your primer or talk to an expert at the auto store for definitive information. Typically, what you will need to do to prepare is:Wipe the area with mineral spirits or paint thinner.Tape newspaper on all surrounding areas within three feet.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 7
Apply thin, even coats of primer. Spray three coats of primer, waiting a few minutes between coats to allow each one to apply. Don’t over-apply — there shouldn’t be so much primer in any one coat that it drips or runs.For most primers, you’ll need to allow the fresh coat to dry overnight (at least 12 hours).
Remove Rust from a Car Step 8
Sand with 400 grit wet sandpaper. This abrasive is specifically made for sanding between paint coats to smooth the surface and degloss so the paint bonds properly. Keep a bucket of water handy to rinse the sandpaper frequently so that it does not get fouled with paint. To finish, wash the painted area with a light soap and water mix.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 9
Spray a thin coat of paint. Use thin coats of paint and let each coat “rest” for a minute or two between applications so as not to let the paint run or sag. Use as many coats of paint over the primer as you need in order to achieve a nice color and finish.Let the paint set at least 24 hours before pulling off the tape. Be conservative — if the paint still feels tacky, you may need more time.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 10
Buff the edges of the new paint so that it blends with the old paint. If necessary, apply a clear coat to match of the finish on the rest of the car. Finally, allow the paint to cure for 48 hours.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 11
Wash and polish the car. Congratulations! Your car is now rust-free and ready to ride.As a precaution, never wax fresh paint within 30 days of painting — the scrubbing, buffing action can pull fresh paint off.

Method 2 of 2: Using “Filler Patches”

Remove Rust from a Car Step 12
Grind rust down to “fresh steel.” This method is slightly different than the one above, but works by the same basic principles and should work especially well for rust spots that have caused holes or pitting. To start, use a metal grinder to remove all of the rust. You want to grind to the point where you have “fresh” (un-rusted) steel all around where the rust spot was, even if this leaves you with a hole.

  • Getting rid of all of the rust is crucial — if you miss even a small fleck of rust, it can corrode underneath your car’s paint over time and lead to another rust spot.
  • Keep in mind, that, because you’re using a grinder, all of the safety precautions at the beginning of the page apply for this method as well.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 13
Cover the hole with a non-rusting filler. Next, you’ll want to apply a filler over your former rust spot. You can buy commercial fillers (like, as mentioned above, Bondo) at most auto stores for fairly cheap. For larger holes, however, you may need to improvise. In this case, you need something flat and fairly durable that paint can bind to and that won’t rust to patch the hole with. Fix this object in place with a coat of commercial filler and allow it to dry.

  • Believe it or not, cut-up beer or soda cans work well for hole-patching purposes. The aluminum in these cans is naturally corrosion-resistant and many modern cans are coated with a thin protective layer anyway.[1] Other good choices are thin sheets of hard plastic .
Remove Rust from a Car Step 14
Use sandpaper to level. Next, use sandpaper to create a smooth, even surface between your new “patch” and the actual body of the car. This can be a long, tedious process — as you sand, you’ll probably find that you need to add additional filler and let it dry periodically as you sand away the existing filler. The process thus becomes something along these lines: Filler, grind, filler, grind, filler, grind… (and so on).

  • Start grinding with a rough (low grit) sandpaper to smooth out big bumps, then gradually transition to a medium and finally a fine (high grit) sandpaper for a perfectly smooth finish.
  • Slow, steady, hand-sanding is best for this process — mechanical grinders can tear your patch away.
Remove Rust from a Car Step 15
Mask around your work area. Next, we need to apply a fresh coating to our newly-repaired rust spot. As with the method above, to prepare for this, you’ll need to mask most of your car to protect it from primer paint, and other airborne particles. Don’t forget your windows and tires.

  • As noted above, try to have the edges of your masking aligned with existing seams in the body of the car to hide minor differences between your new paint and the old paint (unless you’re experienced enough to produce a smooth blend.)
Remove Rust from a Car Step 16
Apply primer, then paint. Apply a few thin coats of primer, allowing each coat a minute or two to adhere before you re-apply on top of it. Let the primer dry overnight, then, after about 12 hours, give it a sanding with wet 400 grit sandpaper so that the paint can adhere properly. When you’re ready, apply your paint on top, using a similar “spray one thin coat at a time and let it dry” strategy as you used for the primer.

  • As with the method above, you may want to buff out the edges of your paint and/or cover with a clear coat layer so that this section matches the finish on the rest of your car.
  • Obviously, it’s important to pick a paint that matches your car’s current finish. Most auto paint shops will be more than happy to help you with this. Keep in mind, however, that the paint on older cars can gradually discolor over time.


  • If the car has significant rust that covers a large area of the body, you may want to leave it to the professionals.
  • Rust converter from a non-spray bottle is excellent for small chips, even if they have not yet begun to rust. Pour out a little in a paper cup (that portion goes bad promptly after being contaminated by bits of rust and the excess must be thrown away). Dab it on up to the edges of good paint with a toothpick. Wait several hours for it to finish reacting and dry before doing anything else to the car (it can be driven once it is dried enough not to run) It leaves a dull black coating that looks like a little tar spot and is generally not noticeable against a medium or dark or metallic color. Touch-up paint will stick to it.
  • If the rust spots are on or around the fender, it may be useful to jack the car safely with a chock behind one of the wheels. Pull off the wheel and unscrew the plastic protecting the wheel well. Doing so will give you a chance to pound out any dents from the inside, and will also allow more room for grinding and painting.
  • Alternative to these lengthy processes are Rust converters, those are primers designed to be applied directly to a rusty surface. Unlike the standard scrape, prime, and paint regime, the user does not have to bring the surface down to bare metal. There are two primary components in a rust converter: a tannin and an organic polymer. The organic polymer provides a protective primer layer.The tannin reacts with the iron oxide, converting it to iron tannate, a stable blue/black corrosion product. You can find a can of that in Walmart for $3 or so.

How to Free a Frozen Parking Brake

A frozen parking brake (also called a hand brake or emergency brake) is going to cause a delay, but it can be “thawed” easily. Unlike the “regular” (hydraulic) brake system on most vehicles, the parking brake is a purely mechanical system. It is operated by springs and cables inside a sheath. Water can become trapped in the sheath and freeze solid if it is cold enough. This ice prevents the cable from sliding inside the sheath as designed.

Another possibility is that a cable may be jammed by dried dirt and mud inside the cable—see the Tips section below.


Free a Frozen Parking Brake Step 1
Start the vehicle.
Free a Frozen Parking Brake Step 2
Release and set the brake repeatedly in an attempt to help dislodge any ice from the brake system.
Block as much of the open space between the ground and sides of the vehicle if the brake is still frozen. Shovel snow or arrange other material along the sides of the vehicle. Doing this will create a path for air flow from front to rear of the vehicle, minimizing “losses” from under the vehicle’s sides. The objective is to get the heat created by the engine and circulated to the radiator at the front of the vehicle, to the rear of the vehicle where most of the parking brake components are located (adjust for locations that differ from those offered in this article). Creating a “channel” under the vehicle by piling snow, etc. in the space under the sides of the vehicle accomplishes just that.
Free a Frozen Parking Brake Step 4
Allow the vehicle to “warm up”. Wait outside the vehicle while it is running. Once the engine has warmed, the heated air pulled through the radiator by the fan and heat created by the exhaust system will pass under the length of the vehicle. The more effort used to “seal” the open spaces under the sides of the vehicle, ensures that the warm air passes under its entire length and allows the thaw process to complete in the least amount of time.
Free a Frozen Parking Brake Step 5

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Attempt to release the brake again. If still frozen, allow more time for the heat created by the vehicle to continue thawing and/or block open spaces at the front and rear of the vehicle, too (this is particularly helpful if it is gusty or windy). Pushing down the accelerator slightly will increase heat, and speed up the engine’s mechanical fan; which will force more warm air under the vehicle. (Note that many newer cars, especially those that are front wheel drive, will not have a mechanical fan. The electric fans in these vehicles are not affected by engine speed and will only turn on once the coolant has reached a pre-determined temperature.)

Tips to Buy Used Cars

The article will lead you to your perfect used car. So please have a read to this article that cover all the necessary tips that you need to consider while buying a used car. Why do people buy used car? This will be a good question to ask. Is it not good to go for a new car? That is all good with new technology and latest gadgets installed. These are the some reasons why people will buy a used car.
? It is less in price/ cheap. Less capital investment.
? You get a luxurious car for fewer prices.
? Deprecation of used car Is less
? You get used car from car maker that sell certified used car with includes warranties.

But buying a second hand car also has some drawbacks. Please keep in mind that used car have more maintenance cost then new cars they usually breakdown and would keep you in trouble. Replace tiers, battery and some general parts like clutch plates etc.

So know you have a brief idea about used cars. Then lets start with the search for used car.
1. Decide your budget: this is the first thing you need to think. Budget also includes the other expenses like the taxes, insurance and also the running cost etc.
2. Decide which type of car you want to buy: You have a wide range of choice you can go you a hatch back, sedan, family car a wagon etc. you should not be too specific with your car like the color, make ,model. If you are too specific this will shoot up your car price.
3. Look for a seller: These days there are many seller for example you can buy a car form a owner of the car, a private dealer that sellers used cars or a car seller that is certified by a company.
? Owner of the car: While buying a car forma private owner you need to be very care full as you won’t be getting any warranty on it. So you need to inspect the car very carefully and also look for all records for services to look for any major damages.
? Private Dealers: This are the dealer that buy cars from owner and sell them they would be giving you warranty but it would be on certain parts only. So you need to go through warranty that he is offering you. In this case you also need to get the vehicle inspected.
? Certified Dealer: Here when you buy a car form a certified dealer you should be a bit relaxed as you won’t be cheated but the car prices would be a bit high. They company it self will service the car before selling it and all the necessary parts are already changed by them. Also you get free services for a limited time and warranty on the car just similar to what you get for a new car.

4. Inspection of car: when you buy from owner of vehicle get it checked by a mechanic. This will give you the history of the car and will also let you know if there is any major damage to the car. Are the parts that are changed genuine and lot more things. Vehicle should also be inspected if you are buying from a private dealer. Where as when you go through a certified dealer it makes you life easy you should not worry about inspection. You can do it on your own.

Following things need to be inspected.
? The engine should run smoothly.
? Check for the body of the car is there any dents on it or has it meat into any accident.
? Look if the car is been repainted. Is there any sign of vehicle been painted.
? Check the battery.
? Check for all the lights of cars. Indicators and head lights are they in order.
? Look for the temperature of the engine is it over heating.
? Look for the tires.

5. Get a Test Drive: While you are having a test drive you come to know the condition of the car and engine. Try to drive the car to its top speed and look if the engine is running smoothly. Look for the alignment of the wheels. Look for the smooth movement of the steering wheel turn right and left. Look if the breaks are in order.
6. Look for the papers: Go through all the paper this will give you a brief idea about the car. It is a single owner car? Has it been in a major accident? Which parts have been changed for this car? How old is this car? Is this car insured? Also look for the invoice.
7. Negotiate the price: have a through look at the car before negotiating its price. If some parts need to be changed then it should be taken into consideration while fixing the final price of vehicle.
8. Transfer Owner ship: this is the last thing that’s need to be done once you are sure with the car you can know get the vehicle transfer to you name. This means that now this car is been recorded into government record at you name.